We are very excited to be offering the wines of David Croix, one of Burgundy’s most talented winemakers. We loved what he did at Camille-Giroud, and while the appellations of his own vineyards are not as grand, complete control over every aspect means they are every bit as good.
David comes neither from Burgundy nor a winemaking family. He grew up in the Loire, and when he was fourteen decided to become an oenologist. During his degree, he worked the 2000 vintage under Benjamin Leroux at Comte Armand, who introduced him to Becky Wassermann. At the time she was negotiating the sale of the small Beaune négociant Camille-Giroud to American investors and offered him the job of technical director. So, at the age of twenty-three, ten days after finishing his studies at Dijon, David took up the post, and started making wine. In 2004, another group of American investors, led by Robert Forbes, suggested to David that they buy an estate in Beaune, for David to run under his own name alongside his position at Camille-Giroud. Wine from Beaune is not exactly sought-after, but David relished the challenge, and Domaine des Croix was born. His last vintage at Camille-Giroud was 2016, when he left to focus exclusively on his own vines.
Starting with five hectares, he increased to 7.75 hectares with the purchase of two red Corton grand crus, and recently, a hectare of vines in Saint-Romain. Like many thoughtful winemakers, he is not organic: while following organic practice 95% of the time, he believes in using some conventional products forbidden by organic regulations that he feels are less harmful to the environment than the organic options. He uses on average around 30% of whole bunches every year, and very little sulphur, waiting until July in 2022 before adding small amounts to the barrels.
‘I think of wines being either quiet or noisy. David makes wines that are quiet, that is to say if you uncork one, you wait a minute or two, your pour a glass, and they begin to open up, you can sense that the winemaker has an extraordinary talent.’ Becky Wasserman, September 2016
David’s wines are models of understatement, impressing with their subtlety and precision. They have a luminous brilliance and energy that make them a must.