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Etienne Grivot is a thinker, a man unafraid of risk. He unites an artistic sensibility with rigorous scientific method and can back up his instinctive decisions with a precise scientific explanation. He is a poet in a lab coat, constantly searching for ways to make the best wine he can. ‘You cannot become good at anything without making mistakes,’ he says, and he must havemade plenty because he is now one of the most brilliant winemakers in Burgundy. From his prime 15.5-hectare holdings, focussed mainly in Nuits and Vosne, he turns out some of the finest and longest-lived wines of the region. In recent years he has been joined by his children Mathilde and Hubert.
The Grivots do everything they can to delay the start of the growing season. They don’t plough as it warms the soil and encourages vegetative growth, and they prune as late as possible. Their harvest began on 6 September after most growers had finished. Etienne felt it was a mistake to focus just on freshness, so they waited for perfect ripeness instead – it’s all about phenolics here. The wines are forward and charming, but Etienne maintains they are more serious than they seem. They certainly do not lack depth, and their balance suggests good ageing potential.
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