The best site in the Winklerberg, at the top of the hill where the volcanic rock is shot through with limestone. It is one of the only sites in Germany to have old vines from a Burgundian ‘selection massale’ planted in 1956, and the wines are always tightly wound and dense. The 2019 is indeed powerful, but also effortlessly elegant, with a lightness of touch in the winemaking that maintains purity and freshness. There is cherry and strawberry fruit, plenty of spice, very fine tannins and a long stony salty finish. Drink 2027 – 2038 *The practice of replanting vineyards with cuttings taken from old vines, thus ensuring clonal diversity, rather than the easier method of using a single clone.