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In its sixth year, the Lafarge domaine in Beaujolais is now well-established. Lovingly made by Eddie Lachaux in the same way as the Pinots in the Côte de Beaune, the wines shine even in difficult years. Atypically for the region, most of the fruit is destemmed, increasingly by hand: Frédéric Lafarge maintains that the interaction of hand and grape gives more energy than when machines are used. To extract a proper dose of tannin, the fermentation temperature can rise higher than the norm in the area, and the must is punched down regularly. They are serious, terroir-driven wines which will reward some cellaring, though in 2019 they are so forward and delicious that many will be drunk on the early side.
2021 was tough. Higher vineyards suffered from frost in April, reducing potential yields, and cold rainy weather during flowering led to poor fruit set, further limiting the crop. Biody-namic methods to treat mildew were stretched to the limit, and hail in the Cercillon and Joie du Palais vineyards was a further blow. Yields are tiny – around 15 hl/ha, but the quality is outstanding – classic Beaujolais, pure, on the fruit, and very elegant.
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