Felsenberg is a terraced vineyard whose rich volcanic soils mean that the vines reach maturity quickly. Its proximity to the river makes it susceptible to fog, and since damp air softens the grapes, it is crucial to harvest at the right moment. Wines made by other growers from here are often rounded and weighty, but Tim Fröhlich picks earlier, and draws out the most elegant aspects. Cooler temperatures made things easier this year, and the wine does not have the pressure of ripeness of warm vintages. It is smoky and flinty, with a dark, very smooth stony mineral core, generous juicy pear fruit and bright citrus acidity, with a lean, long, slightly creamy finish.