Densely planted vines in a tiny corner of the Kammerberg, measuring just a tenth of a hectare, give the estate’s best wine. The soil is poor and thin, the limestone bedrock close to the surface. The grapes are strongly affected by millerandage (poor fruit set resulting in small seedless berries with concentrated flavours), and yields are tiny, this year under 20 hl/ha. In less capable hands you might get a clumsy, alcoholic wine, impressive at the first sip, but then becoming less appealing. Not here. It is intense, yes, with an abundance of dark fruit and powerful tannins, but that fruit is vibrant and pure, the tannins melting and fine, and there is astonishing energy and complexity: notes of violets, chocolate, spices, and delicate smoky flavours as it draws to a lingering juicy finish. Grand vin.