On our first visit last year, the estate’s signature dry wine was still fermenting, so Konstantin offered us the dregs of a bottle of 2016, open for six weeks in the fridge. We feared a tired oxidised wine, but…it was stupendous: beautifully balanced, expressive and long. We learned there that the wines are built to last, and benefit from decanting well in advance. The 2018 is no exception. It has a powerful backbone of salty wet slate, supported by brisk lemony acidity, pure ripe yellow fruit and a very long smooth finish.