104 refers to the vine density. Originally planted in 1968, Hans-Peter doubled the number of vines per hectare in the oldest part of the Steingrüble vineyard in 2001 to get closer to Burgundian models. The wine shows what Gutedel (known as Chasselas across the border in Switzerland) can do when challenged. This is a supremely fine wine in anyone’s book, up there with the best Burgundies, showing that Gutedel is not only a superb reflector of terroir, but can also produce extraordinary complexity and intensity. The 2017 is lean, pure and delightfully juicy. Overnight skin contact after picking gives freshness, structure and a hint of bruised apple, backed by bright citrus fruit, a dash of cream and a minerality that grows more persistent as it glides to an infinitely long, smooth finish. One of Germany’s great white wines.