Lay is a subplot of the larger Badstube vineyard above it, and in the past, wines from the two were often blended together. Since Katharina Prüm has taken over, the wines are bottled separately every year. They are individual in their own right: proximity to the water makes the vineyard warm (and ideal for botrytis), and some clay mixed with the slate protects from drought – the latter a factor in 2017. This year the wine is dense yet smoothly textured, with ripe yellow fruit, bright citrus flavours, and a delicate pure minerality. The finish is dense and long.