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“Based in a sleepy corner of northern Switzerland, Daniel and Martha Gantenbein produce a spectacular set of wines from their modest five hectares. Such a small holding enables the Gantenbeins to react quickly to whatever nature throws at them. A small team with intimate knowledge of the vineyards can quickly deal with any challenges, and take the time for painstaking work to get things just so – like passing through the vineyards eight times immediately before harvest to eliminate any grapes that were not perfect. In their beautifully designed cuverie, where everything is done by gravity, the grapes are gently destemmed – by vibration with a smart German piece of kit – and are deposited whole into the fermentation vats. So the wine gets the benefits of whole-bunch fermentation without the danger of stalky notes from unripe stems. The Chardonnay see 50% new oak, the Pinot Noir 100%.
These are elevated vineyards, and the wines are always fresh, but in 2018 they are, like their counterparts in the rest of Europe, a little riper. They are unusually forward, and can be approached immediately, though they will keep for another fifteen years at least. “
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