Daniel Vollenweider came to the Mosel from his native Switzerland in 1999, with no money but a huge passion for Riesling. He purchased a hectare of a formerly famous, but near-derelict vineyard, the Wolfer Goldgrube, which had very old ungrafted vines, and has never looked back. The estate now comprises 4.5 hectares, and has never produced a sub-standard wine. The Goldgrube is too rocky and steep to be the subject of Flurbereinigung, a process that sees fragmented parcels rationalised, roads built if necessary and vines replanted, all to make mechanisation easier. It runs south to west, and its grey and red slate soils produce deep, spicy wines that need time in bottle to show their glory.