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Domaine Mugnier is a jewel in Chambolle. Its holdings there comprise just three hectares, but they include the commune’s finest sites – Musigny, Bonnes Mares and Amoureuses. Since the 2004 vintage, it has taken back the ten-hectare Clos de la Maréchale in Nuits, rented out to Domaine Faiveley for decades. Frédéric Mugnier is one of the most thoughtful growers in Burgundy, and his wines are pure, elegant and a perfect foil of their origins. As far as winemaking goes, he is non-interventionist. ‘There is no word for winemaker in French, and we no more make wine than a gardener makes flowers; it is what we do in the vineyard that counts.’ He does not change his methods to adapt to a vintage. Rather, every year the fruit is cooled, destemmed but not crushed, and allowed to begin fermentation. He waits until fermentation is almost complete before punching down, and then attempts to minimise other interventions. That he is successful is shown by the demand for his wines: they are hard to find.
Weather conditions in Nuits-Saint-Georges were similar to those in 2020. There was less rain throughout the season than in Chambolle, but just enough to keep the vines going until August, when drought stress became apparent. Fortunately, on 23 August, 2mm of rain was enough to relax the vines, and the harvest began on 1September. Yields are double those of 2021, when the vineyard was hit hard by the frost.
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