The Great German Tasting
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2017 Ölberg GG [42 18] (KUHL34217A)
The south-east orientation of the Ölberg ensures a lot of sun, which gives a rich, rounded wine, and is also exposed to wind, which keeps the wines fresh. Oliver Spanier has made an elegant, vibrant wine with mint and citrus notes and an energetic, powerful finish.
2017 Jacobus Riesling [01 18] (KUHN06217A)
Ripe and expressive, this has vibrant, pithy citrus fruit and a juicy, smooth finish.
2015 Quarzit Oestrich [03 16] (KUHN12215A)
From vineyards with silty clay (loess) soils and a high quartz content. The fruit is yellow and aromatic, and there is a pronounced citrus flavour leading to a long smooth dry finish. Drink 2017 - 2020
2016 Kupp Fass 18 GG [18 17] (LAUE32216A)
More for the long haul: there is a steely note evident here that shuts down the fruit, which will only resolve with a little time. The potential is great: this is a dense, complex wine of great elegance, with bright juicy fruit, brooding smoky minerality and a juicy, pithy, salty finish. Drink 2019 ? 2032
2016 Schonfels Fass 11 GG [11 17] (LAUE34216A)
A very smooth, elegant and accessible wine of great purity and finesse. T he fruit is ripe and there is a delicate mineral vein with bright citrus acidity. A long complex finish combines clear notes of peach, slightly bitter and salty minerals and a lovely piquant acidity. Drink 2018 ? 2032
2016 Saarfeilser Fass 13 GG [13 17] (LAUE36216A)
The most forward of Lauer GGs: warm rich and very ripe soft yellow fruit balanced by a firm backbone of brisk acidity leading to a smooth sweet-sour finish. Drink 2018 - 2032
2017 Silvaner [02 18] (MAYR10217A)
Made from young vines from great sites, this is a forward charmer with yellow fruit, some salty mineral flavours and a fresh finish.
2017 Silvaner Retzstadt [08 18] (MAYR20217A)
This village, or Ortswein, comes in the traditional Franconian bottle, the Bocksbeutel, which may bring back memories of a dubious Portuguese product. don't be put off. 30-year-old vines on fossil-rich limestone soils (including the GG Himmelspfad) give an astonishingly fine, vibrant wine with yellow fruit flavours, including passion fruit, and a fresh salty finish.
2017 Silvaner Retzstadter Langenberg [13 18] (MAYR30217A)
This 1er cru, or Erste Lage is made from 40-year-old vines in the heart of the vineyard, growing on very poor soils. It is very lean and fine, with melting mineral flavours and a hint of smooth tropical fruit.
2016 Rothlauf Silvaner GG [18 17] Thüngersheimer Johannisberg (MAYR42216A)
From the best parcel of a cooler vineyard in neighbouring Thüngersheim, the Johannisberg, which features the same fossil-rich limestone, but here mixed with multicoloured sandstone. Aged in equal parts in steel, concrete egg and wood, this is elegant, perfumed and fine, with a delicate mineral structure and real length. Quite a revelation. Drink 2018 ? 2027
2015 Georg Mosbacher Trocken [03 16] (MOSB06215A)
Delicate yellow fruit, elegance and finesse, plus a pithy rounded finish indicate a wine punching well above its weight. Drink 2017 - 2020
2014 Deidesheimer Mäushöhle Trocken [21 15] (MOSB14214A)
There is focussed yellow fruit here, along with rich mineral and spice flavours, some vibrant lemony acidity, and a rounded long finish.
2017 Ungeheuer GG [44 18] (MOSB25217A)
A pure rich and ripe wine, showing rounded spicy citrus fruit and powerful mineral flavours, plus a long fresh finish.
2015 Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett [29 16] (PRUM10215A)
Cool pure pear flavours with a hint of yellow peach and a burst of pithy citrus are on offer here. There is intensity, elegance and balance, and the typical darker rich minerality of Graach on the finish.
2012 Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese [14 13] (PRUM20212A)
Taut, smoky mineral notes mingled with peach on the nose. A big hit of mineral on the palate, some ripe yellow fruit peeking through. Very dense and long, finishing almost dry.
2013 Schloss Lieser Kabinett Trocken [03 14] (SCLI02213A)
Crisp and well-defined, showing grapefruit and smoky spice notes and a long ripe finish.
2012 Niederberg Helden GG [08 13] (SCLI07212A)
Lots of dense pithy fruit, mouth-coating minerals and vibrant acidity. Fine, pure, and round, with a long salty finish. A really, really good wine.Lots of dense pithy fruit, mouth-coating minerals and vibrant acidity. Fine, pure, and round, with a long salty finish. A really, really good wine.
2013 Schloss Lieser Kabinett [04 14] (SCLI10213A)
Like drinking from a cool mountain spring. Weightless, pure and crisp, with yellow stone fruit and vibrant mineral tones. Get extra. You will need it.
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