The Great German Tasting
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2017 JACOBUS RIESLING [01 18] (KUHN06217A)
Ripe and expressive, this has vibrant, pithy citrus fruit and a juicy, smooth finish.
2015 QUARZIT OESTRICH [03 16] (KUHN12215A)
From vineyards with silty clay (loess) soils and a high quartz content. The fruit is yellow and aromatic, and there is a pronounced citrus flavour leading to a long smooth dry finish. Drink 2017 - 2020
2016 KUPP Fass 18 GG [18 17] (LAUE32216A)
More for the long haul: there is a steely note evident here that shuts down the fruit, which will only resolve with a little time. The potential is great: this is a dense, complex wine of great elegance, with bright juicy fruit, brooding smoky minerality and a juicy, pithy, salty finish. Drink 2019 ' 2032
2016 SCHONFELS Fass 11 GG [11 17] (LAUE34216A)
A very smooth, elegant and accessible wine of great purity and finesse. T'he fruit is ripe and there is a delicate mineral vein with bright citrus acidity. A long complex finish combines clear notes of peach, slightly bitter and salty minerals and a lovely piquant acidity. Drink 2018 ' 2032
2016 SAARFEILSER Fass 13 GG [13 17] (LAUE36216A)
The most forward of Lauer GGs: warm rich and very ripe soft yellow fruit balanced by a firm backbone of brisk acidity leading to a smooth sweet-sour finish. Drink 2018 - 2032
2017 SILVANER [23 18] (MAYR10217A)
Made from young vines from great sites, this is a forward charmer with yellow fruit, some salty mineral flavours and a fresh finish.
2017 SILVANER RETZSTADT [08 18] (MAYR20217A)
This village, or Ortswein, comes in the traditional Franconian bottle, the Bocksbeutel, which may bring back memories of a dubious Portuguese product. Don't be put off. 30-year-old vines on fossil-rich limestone soils (including the GG Himmelspfad) give an astonishingly fine, vibrant wine with yellow fruit flavours, including passion fruit, and a fresh salty finish.
2017 SILVANER Retzstadter Langenberg [13 18] (MAYR30217A)
This 1er cru, or Erste Lage is made from 40-year-old vines in the heart of the vineyard, growing on very poor soils. It is very lean and fine, with melting mineral flavours and a hint of smooth tropical fruit.
2016 ROTHLAUF SILVANER GG [18 17] Th?ngersheimer Johannisberg (MAYR42216A)
From the best parcel of a cooler vineyard in neighbouring Th'ngersheim, the Johannisberg, which features the same fossil-rich limestone, but here mixed with multicoloured sandstone. Aged in equal parts in steel, concrete egg and wood, this is elegant, perfumed and fine, with a delicate mineral structure and real length. Quite a revelation. Drink 2018 ' 2027
2015 GEORG MOSBACHER trocken [03 16] (MOSB06215A)
Delicate yellow fruit, elegance and finesse, plus a pithy rounded finish indicate a wine punching well above its weight. Drink 2017 - 2020
2014 DEIDESHEIMER M?USH?HLE trocken [21 15] (MOSB14214A)
There is focussed yellow fruit here, along with rich mineral and spice flavours, some vibrant lemony acidity, and a rounded long finish.
2017 UNGEHEUER GG [44 18] (MOSB25217A)
A pure rich and ripe wine, showing rounded spicy citrus fruit and powerful mineral flavours, plus a long fresh finish.
2015 GRAACHER HIMMELREICH Kabinett [29 16] (PRUM10215A)
Cool pure pear flavours with a hint of yellow peach and a burst of pithy citrus are on offer here. There is intensity, elegance and balance, and the typical darker rich minerality of Graach on the finish.
2012 GRAACHER HIMMELREICH Spätlese [14 13] (PRUM20212A)
Taut, smoky mineral notes mingled with peach on the nose. A big hit of mineral on the palate, some ripe yellow fruit peeking through. Very dense and long, finishing almost dry.
2013 SCHLOSS LIESER Kabinett trocken [03 14] (SCLI02213A)
Crisp and well-defined, showing grapefruit and smoky spice notes and a long ripe finish.
2012 NIEDERBERG HELDEN GG [08 13] (SCLI07212A)
Lots of dense pithy fruit, mouth-coating minerals and vibrant acidity. Fine, pure, and round, with a long salty finish. A really, really good wine.Lots of dense pithy fruit, mouth-coating minerals and vibrant acidity. Fine, pure, and round, with a long salty finish. A really, really good wine.
2013 SCHLOSS LIESER Kabinett [04 14] (SCLI10213A)
Like drinking from a cool mountain spring. Weightless, pure and crisp, with yellow stone fruit and vibrant mineral tones. Get extra. You will need it.
2012 BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER SONNENUHR Spätlese [10 13] (SCLI22212A)
Slightly more generous than the Helden, with ripe mirabelle and yellow peach fruit and gentle floral notes. Elegant, melting, juicy and precise. Lovely fresh finish.
2014 NAHE Riesling trocken [04 15] (SFRO64214A)
Perfect juicy balance here, showing peach, citrus and a dash of blackcurrant, and finishing with a delicious pithy flourish.
2014 VULKANGESTEIN trocken [07 15] (SFRO66214A)
From 30-40 year-old vines in Felsenberg and Stromberg. Pithy, smoky notes marry with peach and a delightfully fresh grapefruit note. Blackcurrant flavours follow, and there is an elegant mineral heat on the fresh finish.
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