The Great German Tasting
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2014 Deidesheimer Mäushöhle Trocken [21 15] (MOSB14214A)
There is focussed yellow fruit here, along with rich mineral and spice flavours, some vibrant lemony acidity, and a rounded long finish.
2017 Ungeheuer GG [44 18] (MOSB25217A)
A pure rich and ripe wine, showing rounded spicy citrus fruit and powerful mineral flavours, plus a long fresh finish.
2013 Schloss Lieser Kabinett Trocken [03 14] (SCLI02213A)
Crisp and well-defined, showing grapefruit and smoky spice notes and a long ripe finish.
2012 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Spätlese [10 13] (SCLI22212A)
Slightly more generous than the Helden, with ripe mirabelle and yellow peach fruit and gentle floral notes. Elegant, melting, juicy and precise. Lovely fresh finish.
2014 Bockenauer Schiefergestein  (SFRO70214A)
From 30-40 year-old vines in Felseneck. Steely smoke and spice flavours mingle with pure fresh peach and greengage fruit. At this level the finesse is extraordinary, and a juicy lemon and earthy mineral finish rounds it off perfectly.
2016 Felsenberg GG [19 17] (SFRO80216A)
Harvested a little earlier than usual, as rain in August caused strong vegetative growth that pushed the ripeness forward. There is both power and elegance here, with yellow stone fruit, ripe grapefruit and smoky flinty minerals. Drink 2019 - 2032
2014 Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese [08 15] (SHAE18214A)
Some pure botrytis flavours add to the complexity, but do not diminish its purity. There is bags of energy, vibrant fruit and a clear salty mineral edge, but it manages an effortless gentleness and elegance, and there is no trace of weight. A long juicy finish promises a great future.
2017 Goldgrube Trocken (VOLL80217A)
A balanced, fine and delicate wine at first taste, but this is followed by a surge of power that builds in depth and length to a juicy salty finish.
2016 Silvaner 'Der Wilde' (WEIG16216A)
2017 Weisser Burgunder [07 18] (WITT22217A)
A little bit of skin contact adds structure to this fresh, lemon-scented mineral-driven wine, which has clean vibrant fruit and a fresh finish.
2017 Westhofener (WITT34217A)
Young vines from Morstein and Absterde give yellow stone fruit flavours and some weight. There is balance, ripeness and delicious bright citrus acidity, as well as an elegant mineral finish.
2017 Wolfer Sonnenlay Kabinett Trocken [08 18] (WSEI60217A)
Uncompromisingly dry, this playful light wine is full of vibrant citrus acidity, and salty slate flavours. It is cool and quite delicious.
2016 Gaispfad Trocken  (WSEI74216A)
Gaispfad – goat’s path – is an impossibly steep vineyard between Traben-Trarbach and Enkirch, featuring stony slate soil rich in iron oxide. The wine is dense, rich and mineral, with elegant stone fruit and a long, smooth finish. Drink 2019 - 2028
2014 Steingrüble Gutedel Unfiltriert (ZIER10214A)
Weighing in at a refreshing 12% alcohol, it is a complex wine with smoky, smooth juicy yellow melon fruit, pointed lemony acidity, a creamy rich middle courtesy of 22 months on the lees, and a powerful, elegant stony finish ? not surprising when the vineyard is on the site of a former quarry.
1999 Rausch Auslese [04 00] (ZILL30099Y)
Creamy, rich and ripe, showing smoky notes typical of the Rausch, a fine minerality and soft dried apricot fruit. There is a pleasing waxy quality from bottle-age, plus a lot of sweetness here, and there is no rush to drink it. Drink 2017 - 2025
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