The Great German Tasting
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2017 Ölberg GG [42 18] (KUHL34217A)
The south-east orientation of the Ölberg ensures a lot of sun, which gives a rich, rounded wine, and is also exposed to wind, which keeps the wines fresh. Oliver Spanier has made an elegant, vibrant wine with mint and citrus notes and an energetic, powerful finish.
2017 Jacobus Riesling [01 18] (KUHN06217A)
Ripe and expressive, this has vibrant, pithy citrus fruit and a juicy, smooth finish.
2016 Kupp Fass 18 GG [18 17] (LAUE32216A)
More for the long haul: there is a steely note evident here that shuts down the fruit, which will only resolve with a little time. The potential is great: this is a dense, complex wine of great elegance, with bright juicy fruit, brooding smoky minerality and a juicy, pithy, salty finish. Drink 2019 – 2032
2016 Schonfels Fass 11 GG [11 17] (LAUE34216A)
A very smooth, elegant and accessible wine of great purity and finesse. T he fruit is ripe and there is a delicate mineral vein with bright citrus acidity. A long complex finish combines clear notes of peach, slightly bitter and salty minerals and a lovely piquant acidity. Drink 2018 – 2032
2016 Saarfeilser Fass 13 GG [13 17] (LAUE36216A)
The most forward of Lauer GGs: warm rich and very ripe soft yellow fruit balanced by a firm backbone of brisk acidity leading to a smooth sweet-sour finish. Drink 2018 - 2032
2017 Silvaner [02 18] (MAYR10217A)
Made from young vines from great sites, this is a forward charmer with yellow fruit, some salty mineral flavours and a fresh finish.
2017 Silvaner Retzstadt [08 18] (MAYR20217A)
This village, or Ortswein, comes in the traditional Franconian bottle, the Bocksbeutel, which may bring back memories of a dubious Portuguese product. don't be put off. 30-year-old vines on fossil-rich limestone soils (including the GG Himmelspfad) give an astonishingly fine, vibrant wine with yellow fruit flavours, including passion fruit, and a fresh salty finish.
2017 Silvaner Retzstadter Langenberg [13 18] (MAYR30217A)
This 1er cru, or Erste Lage is made from 40-year-old vines in the heart of the vineyard, growing on very poor soils. It is very lean and fine, with melting mineral flavours and a hint of smooth tropical fruit.
2015 Georg Mosbacher Trocken [03 16] (MOSB06215A)
Delicate yellow fruit, elegance and finesse, plus a pithy rounded finish indicate a wine punching well above its weight. Drink 2017 - 2020
2014 Deidesheimer Mäushöhle Trocken [21 15] (MOSB14214A)
There is focussed yellow fruit here, along with rich mineral and spice flavours, some vibrant lemony acidity, and a rounded long finish.
2017 Ungeheuer GG [44 18] (MOSB25217A)
A pure rich and ripe wine, showing rounded spicy citrus fruit and powerful mineral flavours, plus a long fresh finish.
2013 Schloss Lieser Kabinett Trocken [03 14] (SCLI02213A)
Crisp and well-defined, showing grapefruit and smoky spice notes and a long ripe finish.
2012 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Spätlese [10 13] (SCLI22212A)
Slightly more generous than the Helden, with ripe mirabelle and yellow peach fruit and gentle floral notes. Elegant, melting, juicy and precise. Lovely fresh finish.
2017 Goldgrube Trocken (VOLL80217A)
A balanced, fine and delicate wine at first taste, but this is followed by a surge of power that builds in depth and length to a juicy salty finish.
2016 Silvaner 'Der Wilde' (WEIG16216A)
2017 Weisser Burgunder [07 18] (WITT22217A)
A little bit of skin contact adds structure to this fresh, lemon-scented mineral-driven wine, which has clean vibrant fruit and a fresh finish.
2017 Westhofener (WITT34217A)
Young vines from Morstein and Absterde give yellow stone fruit flavours and some weight. There is balance, ripeness and delicious bright citrus acidity, as well as an elegant mineral finish.
2017 Wolfer Sonnenlay Kabinett Trocken [08 18] (WSEI60217A)
Uncompromisingly dry, this playful light wine is full of vibrant citrus acidity, and salty slate flavours. It is cool and quite delicious.
2016 Gaispfad Trocken  (WSEI74216A)
Gaispfad – goat’s path – is an impossibly steep vineyard between Traben-Trarbach and Enkirch, featuring stony slate soil rich in iron oxide. The wine is dense, rich and mineral, with elegant stone fruit and a long, smooth finish. Drink 2019 - 2028
2014 Steingrüble Gutedel Unfiltriert (ZIER10214A)
Weighing in at a refreshing 12% alcohol, it is a complex wine with smoky, smooth juicy yellow melon fruit, pointed lemony acidity, a creamy rich middle courtesy of 22 months on the lees, and a powerful, elegant stony finish ? not surprising when the vineyard is on the site of a former quarry.
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