2019 German Grosse Gewächse & 2018 Pinot Noir
2019 Dry Whites
Now and then a truly great vintage comes along, a year when all the elements combine to give wines of harmony, finesse and energy, wines that reflect their origins, that taste delicious young but also have the capacity to age. 2019 is such a vintage.
They are easy to taste: very precise wines where each element – the vibrant fruit, the juicy acidity, the pure minerality is clearly delineated and effortlessly integrated. Some are positively ethereal. They crackle with energy and a broad spectrum of fruit flavours: elderflower and blackcurrant, pear and white peach. Many show notes of fresh green herbs and spice - nutmeg and pepper. The acidity is ripe and lemony, and the mineral structure complex and fine, going from pithy and lean to broad dark earthy flavours, almost always with a distinct salinity.
2018 was one of the hottest vintages this century and created great challenges for growers. As you would expect, the reds are rich and muscular, with ripe forward fruit; nonetheless despite the heat, they are balanced and elegant and show clearly defined terroirs. They are opulent and fruit-driven, seductive and approachable, and display all the hallmarks of longevity.
These are some of the world’s greatest wines, and they offer excellent value.
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2019 Goldberg [15 20] (KNEW42219A)
From a warmer site, with a higher clay content in the soil. A taut, lemony wine with a gentle elegance and purity. The fruit is very juicy and yellow, with a healthy dash of fresh green, and a chalky saline pithiness emerging as the wine builds in power to a long focussed finish. So much lightness and energy! A joy to drink.
2019 Hundertgulden [19 20] (KNEW46219A)
A vineyard of Mosel-like steepness with chalky loam soils on a limestone base give a deeper, richer wine with dense yellow fruit tinged with herbs, and more power and breadth. But it is kept taut by vibrant lemony acidity and a very fine saline pithiness increasing in intensity as it builds to a juicy finish
2019 Steinacker [18 20] (KNEW48219A)
An intensely herbal, densely woven wine with crisp lemony fruit and huge reserves of power. It is focussed, lean and stony, and as it unfolds there are hints of red fruit and fresh green flavours to offset the dark mineral core. It finishes on a long juicy fresh note. Quite outstanding.
2019 Grauburgunder Eichbuck [03 20] (KOCH30219A)
Lots of skin contact, but such is the fruit density that the phenolic element is noticeable only for its contribution to the energy and balance of this rich, fresh beautifully elegant and moreish wine.
2019 Ölberg GG [57 20] (KUHL34219A)
A finely textured, very smooth wine with seductive floral fruit and bright citrus notes, balanced by pithy salty grapefruit flavours. It is light, energetic and long.
2019 Pettenthal GG [59 20] (KUHL36219A)
A dense, smoky linear wine with lovely definition and smoothness: clear red and ripe yellow fruit, bright juicy citrus flavours, a cooling green herbal note, and a fine salty oak-tinged finish.
2019 Kupp Fass 18 GG [18 20] (LAUE32219A)
Still, duty calls. No hardship when you taste something as good as this. Kupp usually needs time to show its best, but this one is very forward. There is still a touch of austerity: the minerality though fine, is powerful and very present, but there is an abundance of ripe fruit â?? juicy citrus, pears and spice to balance it. The finish is long and full of mineral heat. A quite outstanding effort that will run and run.
2019 Schonfels Fass 11 GG [11 20] (LAUE34219A)
A smooth, flowing wine with ripe citrus and fine flint flavours, fresh green notes and a pronounced saltiness on the finish. I have tasted this wine three times and was so taken by it that it was difficult to move on to the next one. Quite delicious.
2019 Saarfeilser Fass 13 GG [13 20] (LAUE36219A)
A floral, almost musky nose of roses and citronella; on the palate it is soft, smooth and rich, there are green notes, and a lovely fine mineral seam on the long pithy citrus and spice finish.
2019 Himmelspfad Silvaner GG [11 20] (MAYR40219A)
Soft ripe pear and yellow peach fruit is balanced by vibrant acidity and an elegant saline minerality that appears halfway through and builds to a pronounced finish. The balance is perfect, the fruit juicy and ripe, and the finesse astonishing. Who knew that Silvaner could be so good?
2019 Rothlauf Silvaner GG [12 20] (MAYR42219A)
A leaner, more mineral-driven wine than the Himmelspfad, denser and more focussed. The lemony acidity is more marked, and the yellow fruit tightly bound by the powerful but fine saline minerality. There is a lot of intensity and energy here: you sense the pressure of the vintage behind the elegance, and the wine is pure and long. It will age beautifully.
2019 Freundstück GG [42 20] (MOSB24219A)
Very old vines give an intense, vibrant wine with zingy acidity, notes of peach and lemon peel and a long stony finish.
2019 Ungeheuer GG [44 20] (MOSB25219A)
This starts gently, with smooth pithy grapefruit flavours, and then a burst of energy and intensity shows why the vineyard name translates as 'monster'. But the Mosbacher wines are always understated, and here the terroir is expressed in the most elegant way: It is vibrant, superbly balanced and subtle, with a silky stony minerality that builds to an effortlessly long finish.
2019 Jesuitengarten GG [45 20] (MOSB27219A)
One of the region's best vineyards gives an amazingly intense wine that is powerful and fine at once, with juicy yellow fruit, pointed lemony acidity and a silky smooth saline minerality that builds to a long, new oak-tinged finish. Quite outstanding.
2019 Langenmorgen GG [46 20] (MOSB29219A)
A recent addition to the portfolio. Organically farmed vines planted in multicoloured sandstone in the best part of the vineyard give a rich vibrant wine with ripe juicy pear fruit, brisk pithy acidity, a lovely smooth salinity and a long fine finish.
2019 Schloss Lieser GG COLLECTION (SCLI01219A)
1 bottle each of: Juffer, Himmelreich, Niederberg Helden, Juffer-Sonnenuhr, Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Goldtröpchen. A unique opportunity to sample some of the Mosel's finest terroirs, as channelled by one of its best winemakers.
2019 Goldtropchen GG [33 20] (SCLI02219A)
The deep soils of the Goldtröpchen tend to give powerful, long-lived wines, and it is Thomas Haag's great achievement to draw out all the most elegant aspects of this famous site. The fruit is pure, precise, and crackling with energy, there is a delicate smoky flintiness to the fine minerality, and underneath lurks the power of the vineyard, promising a long life. Sheer joy.
2019 Himmelreich GG [29 20] (SCLI04219A)
With bright pure citrus, floral and white peach fruit, this vivacious wine is very much at the elegant end of the spectrum, finishing in a very fine long salty note.
2019 Juffer GG [28 20] (SCLI06219A)
A floral, seemingly delicate wine with gentle pear and citrus flavours, but underneath lies the fine, powerful dark slatiness of the vineyard, giving energy and length. This year there is added smoothness without any compromise of purity, and it is juicy and bright throughout.
2019 Niederberg Helden GG [30 20] (SCLI07219A)
The Helden vineyard is the heart of Schloss Lieser, and comprises its largest single vineyard holding. It gives powerful, mineral-driven and long-lived wines packed with flavour. This year it is smooth, bright and elegant, with the salty freshness of a sea breeze harking back a few million years to when it was part of the ocean floor. There is juicy peach and citrus fruit with a hint of green, an intense smoky slate note and a long broad succulent finish.
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