Seven years on, 2011 Burgundies are beginning to shine. Tucked between two rather better-know vintages, they have been unjustly neglected. Both colours are proving excellent current drinking, and the best have much time ahead of them. And looking back, the prices look very attractive.
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2011 NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1er cru, Clos-de-l'Arlot (ARLO21211B)
Very low yields of less than 20 hl/ha give a wine that is concentrated and bursting with energy. Beautifully defined spicy, rounded and warm red fruits, floral flavours and fine tannins drive to a vibrant finish.
2011 NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1er cru, Clos-des-Forêts-St.-Georges (ARLO22211A)
2011 has produced an absolute cracker. Dark hedgerow fruit with strong sour cherry notes and hint of smoke burst onto the palate, and great depth and intensity are immediately evident. Rich tannins give a serious note, but it is full of the joys of life, with an irrepressible energy and enormous appeal. Forêts is a sadly underestimated vineyard; this is the sort of wine that deserves to turn its fortunes around.
2011 POMMARD 1er cru, Clos des Epeneaux (ARMA32211D)
2010 was a hard act to follow, but this is a superb effort, in its own way every bit as good. Vibrant red sour cherry fruit with a hint of black, exceptionally fine tannins and a delicate mineral current running through it. Very balanced, with a plummy, spicy finish.
2011 NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1er cru, Clos des Corvées Pagets (ARNO32211A)
2011 LATRICIERES-CHAMBERTIN (ARNO56211A)
2011 VOLNAY Vieilles Vignes (BOUL22211A)
Rich spicy, darker fruit with a generosity in the mid-palate lifted by vibrant mineral flavours. Very pure: each element clearly delineated as the wine develops in the mouth. Fresh, intense and long. Will need some time in bottle.
2011 BEAUNE 1er cru Les Reversées (BOUL30211A)
40% whole-bunch fermentation as usual, which imparts aromatic complexity and freshness. Intense black hedgerow and red cherry fruit, well-structured minerality, fine silky tannins and a long finish. Very accessible and lovely.
2011 VOLNAY 1er cru, Carelles (BOUL40211A)
Scented red fruit with lovely minerality that comes through on the mid-palate. Fresh and delicate, almost weightless, and beautifully defined. Fine tannins evident on the long finish.
2011 VOLNAY 1er cru, Caillerets (BOUL42211A)
Fine red fruit, soft, elegant, and almost ethereal. Exuberant and bright, with plenty of minerality on the long finish.
2011 POMMARD 1er cru, Fremiers (BOUL50211A)
80% whole bunch fermentation. Rounded perfumed nose leads to intense fruit on the palate, complemented by notes of chocolate and spice. Pure and full of energy, which lifts the normally rich and sometimes ponderous Fremiers towards the ethereal.
2011 POMMARD 1er cru, Rugiens (BOUL52211A)
Very thin soil in the high part of the vineyard allows a smoky note from the rock to permeate the wine, joined by massive dark fruitcake elements, but defined at present by a delicious salty minerality which keeps it vibrant and pure. A fantastic Rugiens.
2011 BOURGOGNE Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 'Au Crétot' (CAMI06211A)
Fresh, ripe and creamy; very attractive and moreish.
2011 LADOIX (CAMI14211A)
Bright spicy cherry fruit, well-balanced and rich. Pure long finish.
2011 SANTENAY 1er cru Clos Rousseau (CAMI20211A)
Beautifully textured. A dense knot of red fruit at the core enveloped by game and mineral flavours. Very intense and lovely, and how can one resist a name like this'
2011 ALOXE-CORTON 1er cru Les Valozi?res (CAMI26211A)
A new wine, from a vineyard just below Corton-Bressandes. Dark, bramble fruit with distinct pepper, chocolate and gamy elements. Rounded and deep, driven to a long finish by a vibrant minerality.
2011 CORTON LE ROGNET (CAMI42211A)
30% whole-bunch fermentation 'to make it more serious'. Very seductive, round and silky, with huge depth of flavour, vibrant freshness, precision and length.
2011 CORTON LE CLOS DU ROI (CAMI44211A)
Made from biodynamically farmed fruit. It peeps out shyly from behind massive, chocolatey tannins. Very vibrant, fresh and long. A superb Clos du Roi, but one for the cellar.
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