Weingut Fritz Haag en primeur Back to producer list
No shortage of weather in the Brauneberg in 2017: early budbreak, severe April frosts and heavy storms presented big challenges. Yet meticulous vineyard work overcame them, and produced an exceptional, if small harvest ranging across the board, from estate wine to two fine TBAs.
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2019 Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett [03 20] (HAAG06219A)
A textbook Kabinett: racy, featherlight and juicy. It is a little drier than in the past, accentuated by the bright lemony acidity that nicely balances the cool fresh, slightly spicy grapefruit, elderflower and yellow peach, and there is hint of salinity on the finish. This has to be up there as one of the best wines of the vintage.
2019 Brauneberger Juffer Spätlese [05 20] (HAAG17219A)
Light, delicate and pure, showing yellow fruit and pronounced spice notes, accompanied by a gentle minerality and ripe juicy acidity. Oliver's father Wilhelm described his goal as making wine that would make 'the tastebuds spring to attention and cry for more.' Job done here.
2019 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Spätlese [07 20] (HAAG20219A)
Made from vines clustered around the sundial in the heart of the vineyard, where it is very rocky. The rocks absorb warmth quickly, and the resulting wines are richer than those from the surrounding Juffer vineyard. The wine is riper, finer and more elegant than the plain Juffer, with more pronounced yellow fruit and spice notes. There is a cool greenness here, too, and the acidity is ripe and fresh. It has power without being overbearing, a seamless, complex wine that is lovely now and will be for decades.
2019 Brauneberger Juffer Auslese [20 20] (HAAG28219A)
Germans love their technical figures. Ask a French grower how much acidity a wine has, and they will give you an odd look. A German, on the other hand will have precise alcohol levels, acidity, residual sugar and degree of ripeness at their fingertips. So far so interesting, but they will stress that these figures bear no relation to how the wines actually taste. And that’s what we have here: a wine with over 100g/l of residual sugar that should taste very sweet…but in fact tastes practically dry. It is very brisk and lemony, full of cool fresh green and yellow fruit, shy and elegant, with a delicate salinity becoming more pronounced on the lingering finish.
2019 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese [06 20] (HAAG30219A)
There is only a marginal difference in ripeness between this and the Juffer Auslese, but the grapes come from vines in the oldest plots around the sundial, and the result is quite distinct: the wine is riper and smoother, the salty minerality impossibly fine, and the acidity enlivening and juicy. Power without weight, effortless elegance - this is a winemaker at the top of his game coaxing the best from his vineyard.
2019 Brauneberger Juffer Auslese Goldkapsel [22 20] (HAAG39219B)
Botrytis creeps in at this level, but is pure and never oppressive. Oliver reported that he tried to keep this wine fine and on the lighter side, and he has succeeded. It has delicate yellow fruit, spice and a slight creaminess enveloping the steely mineral core.
2019 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsel [09 20] (HAAG40219B)
More power than the Juffer, but also more finesse. It is noticeably sweeter and deeper, and the density more in evidence. There is pronounced yellow fruit, lots of spice, and a lemon sherbet note to the bright acidity. The finish is very long, made lean by fine minerality.
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