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Thomas Haag and his right-hand man Philipp Veser must be the best organised people in the Mosel: they dealt smoothly with the challenges of frost and rot, and because yields are down by a third, the resulting wines are concentrated and quite brilliant.
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2018 Niederberg Helden Spätlese [14 19] (SCLI20218A)
An elegant, fine and eminently drinkable wine which shows vibrant golden-yellow fruit, pure citrus acidity and a nice mineral kick on the finish.
2018 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese [16 19] (SCLI21218A)
Generous floral fruit, smooth creamy mineral flavours and vibrant citrus notes are so perfectly poised that suddenly you have nothing better to do than finish the bottle.
2018 Juffer-Sonnenuhr Spätlese [15 19] (SCLI22218A)
So elegant! The yellow fruit tinged with blackcurrant leaf is vibrant and fine, the creamy mineral flavours caress the palate and the finish is beautifully balanced, silky and long.
2018 Goldtröpchen Spätlese [17 19] (SCLI23218A)
The third vintage from a 0.7-ha plot. The richest and most powerful Spätlese in the line-up, it has an abundance of ripe yellow fruit, brisk ripe acidity and a deep, rich creamy minerality that builds towards a persistent finish .
2018 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese [20 19] (SCLI27218A)
Thomas Haag is modestly proud of his wines, but I have never heard him praise them, so when he likened this Auslese to a butterfly, I listened. And he is not wrong: this is ethereal, with a complex lacy mineral structure off which hangs a mass of delicate citrus and floral fruit, and finishing on a delicate sweet-sour note.
2018 Goldtröpchen Auslese [21 19] (SCLI29218A)
A taut wine brimming with energy. The very ripe yellow fruit is pure and sweet, washed clean by tangy citrus flavours and a cool fine smoky finish.
2018 Niederberg Helden Auslese [18 19] (SCLI30218A)
A sip is electrifying: there is a rush of zippy acidity, juicy yellow fruit, and then the fine earthy grip typical of the vineyard emerges on the finish.
2018 Niederberg Helden Auslese Goldkapsel [22 19] (SCLI31218A)
An intensely perfumed wine with a delicate creamy mineral centre, juicy citrus and yellow fruit and a long rich finish.
2018 Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese [19 19] (SCLI35218A)
A fine, linear wine of extraordinary persistence. The fruit is floral and ripe with a citrus edge, even a hint of sherbet; it is supported by finely wrought salty, smoky mineral flavours and finishes on a smooth juicy note.
2018 Niederberg Helden Auslese LGK [24 19] (SCLI36218A)
Lots more botrytis here: the yellow stone fruit is creamy and intense and there are powerful smoky flint notes, lashings of lemon and honey and a long fine juicy sweet finish.
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