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Thomas Haag and his right-hand man Philipp Veser must be the best organised people in the Mosel: they dealt smoothly with the challenges of frost and rot, and because yields are down by a third, the resulting wines are concentrated and quite brilliant.
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2018 Niederberg Helden Kabinett [08 19] (SCLI13218C)
A little more of everything here: there is power and richness to the yellow fruit, and the lively acidity and mineral depth make it taste drier. It is bright and charming.
2018 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett [11 19] (SCLI14218A)
A more serious wine, for keeping. The fruit is spicy, mineral-driven and dense, supported by powerful citrus notes and a fine elegant finish.
2018 Goldtröpchen Kabinett [12 19] (SCLI16218A)
Layers of yellow fruit, bright lemony acidity and the mineral depth and power of the vineyard combine in a vibrant, elegant wine that will be approachable now but even better in a few years.
2018 Schloss Lieser Kabinett Collection (SCLI18218A)
2 bottles each of Himmelreich, Helden, Juffer, Sonnenuhr and Goldtröpchen and Doktor: an ideal way to sample the individual terroirs.
2018 Niederberg Helden Spätlese [14 19] (SCLI20218A)
An elegant, fine and eminently drinkable wine which shows vibrant golden-yellow fruit, pure citrus acidity and a nice mineral kick on the finish.
2018 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese [16 19] (SCLI21218A)
Generous floral fruit, smooth creamy mineral flavours and vibrant citrus notes are so perfectly poised that suddenly you have nothing better to do than finish the bottle.
2018 Juffer-Sonnenuhr Spätlese [15 19] (SCLI22218A)
So elegant! The yellow fruit tinged with blackcurrant leaf is vibrant and fine, the creamy mineral flavours caress the palate and the finish is beautifully balanced, silky and long.
2018 Goldtröpchen Spätlese [17 19] (SCLI23218A)
The third vintage from a 0.7-ha plot. The richest and most powerful Spätlese in the line-up, it has an abundance of ripe yellow fruit, brisk ripe acidity and a deep, rich creamy minerality that builds towards a persistent finish .
2018 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese [20 19] (SCLI27218A)
Thomas Haag is modestly proud of his wines, but I have never heard him praise them, so when he likened this Auslese to a butterfly, I listened. And he is not wrong: this is ethereal, with a complex lacy mineral structure off which hangs a mass of delicate citrus and floral fruit, and finishing on a delicate sweet-sour note.
2018 Goldtröpchen Auslese [21 19] (SCLI29218A)
A taut wine brimming with energy. The very ripe yellow fruit is pure and sweet, washed clean by tangy citrus flavours and a cool fine smoky finish.
2018 Niederberg Helden Auslese [18 19] (SCLI30218A)
A sip is electrifying: there is a rush of zippy acidity, juicy yellow fruit, and then the fine earthy grip typical of the vineyard emerges on the finish.
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