This famous Mosel estate – one of Germany’s finest – has released their 2010s. The Graach wines, coming from deeper soils, are slightly richer and rounder, with an earthy note; the Wehlen wines more lean and mineral, with pronounced floral notes, and usually finer. They also take longer to come round. Lovely wines were made in Bernkastel and particularly Zeltingen this year.

The estate has focussed on those wines which are the ‘natural’ expression of the vintage, and so there are no single vineyard Kabinetts, and little Spätlese. The estate Kabinett is a delight, but the real glories lie higher up the scale.

Despite the strength of the Euro, these wines are still astounding value for money: from which other region of the world can one buy the wines from a top estate for so little?