This century has seen an extraordinary run of top-class German vintages: the powerful 2001s, the gorgeously elegant 2002's, the very ripe 2003s (now sliming down to rival the 1959s), the classic 2004s, the legendary 2005s, and the wonderfully seductive botrytised 2006s.

 

2007 is another superlative year. The wines appeal not for their muscle, but for their exemplary balance, charm and, above all, finesse. They may appear to be featherweights, but thanks to the long growing season they have an enormous density, and a very long life ahead of them.